The Portillón route

Climbing towards the Port de Benasque from the Hospice de France. August 2022

Since medieval times the Port de Benasque has been a route for shepherds, smugglers, pilgrims, mountaineers and merchants. That’s why to walk today the Pyrenean paths that join the Hospice de France and the Hospital de Benasque is like walking through a museum. Last week, together with Celeste Reyna and Beatriz Aisia, we reached the Hospice de France via the Port de la Picada and the Pas de l’Escalette to meet the group of walkers from the Grand Tour and cross the Port de Benasque together the next day.

The path from the Hospice to the Portillón de Benasque is a zigzag route optimised by the passage and experience of walkers throughout history: a path so special it has inspired countless engravings. Sharing the climb with the small group of Grand Tour walkers gave it a ceremonial air, fostered by the silence of the mountain and by the presence of the Gavatxa (fog, boira). It was a ceremonial ascent crowned by the majestic view of the Maladeta Massif, once the Portillón was crossed, at 2,444 metres.

At night, once at our destination, the unsettling passage of a platoon of Starlink satellites, dismantling millennia-old constellations, shrank the sky. «What will become of that silence, when we’ll never be alone?», «will there still be room to keep walking in the cracks of reality

Starlink launch. August 2022

The route

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Old mountains — Are.na